Riaan Manser now plans to take on mystical Iceland and her arctic waters. A change of temperature and scenery, yes, but even more notable is that this time he will be partnered. This will be another special journey that will see Riaan conquer new worlds while his partner conquers his own physical disabilities. Manser's dream started as a personal inspiration story and 9 years later he now believes this "ICELAND INSPIRATION" journey; with it's characters and challenges will call millions to task as to what they have really personally committed in making their lives even more meaningful. Riaan met his Iceland expedition partner Dan Skinstad a few years previously and was immediately struck by Dan's determination and passion for life. Dan has mild cerebral palsy, and was at a cross-roads in his life where he was desperate to face his physical and mental struggles head on by attempting a physical boot camp or challenge.

    Riaan decided to change the course of his next venture by adopting Dan as his expedition partner. This adventure will be one like no other- Riaan for the first time guiding a partner through rough waters while Dan harnesses his inner strength to deal with his own personal conflicts.

    Around Iceland on Inspiration will see Riaan and Dan paddling around the 5000km perimeter of Iceland on a double sea kayak for a four- month period starting in March 2011. The 96 rowing days will be broken down to an average of 21 kilometres of paddling per day, with just 19 rest days during this period.

    This incredible feat will be filmed by a team of expert filmmakers and photographers, with the best equipment for the job. The crew will follow the pair, but will not offer any assistance or backup to them. Riaan and Dan will essentially be un-aided, and will have to set up their own camp at the end of each day, find (or hunt for) their own food if need be, and deal with emergency situations alone and unaided.

    Iceland is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean on the Mid- Atlantic ridge. It lies just outside the Arctic Circle, and the temperature can vary from as low as -2 °C (28 °F) in the winter to as high as 25 °C (77 °F) in the summer. The summer months (May to August) have almost continuous daylight, which decreases to three or four hours in the winter months (November to January)

    Iceland is a beautiful but unpredictable land, with constantly changing weather conditions and dramatically contrasting landscapes. It is highly geologically active with many volcanoes, as well as geysirs and hot springs. The coast is deeply indented by bays and fjords, and is covered extensively by glaciers, ice fields and mountains with boiling mud pools, waterfalls and glacial rivers. In winter the northern lights illuminate the sky with undulating greens, blues, yellows and pinks.

    The creatures that inhabit the land and waters of Iceland include the arctic fox, Icelandic horse, killer whale and a great many other species of whale and dolphin, as well as birds which occupy the cliff faces in their millions such as puffins, razorbills, guillemots, auks, gannets and skuas.

    Iceland is a breathtaking land of fire and ice. To the filmmaker, photographer and the nature- lover, Iceland is the most visually exciting place the world has to offer.

    Riaan and Dan's adventure will begin in the small town of Husavik in the north- east of Iceland- the whale-watching capital of the world.

    The duo will travel around the north- east point of Iceland- the edge of the Arctic Circle- and then head south down the east coast- a magical region of glaciers, forests, bird cliffs, vast deserts and narrow fjords, a region rich in natural wonders and cultural history.

    Heading down towards south- east Iceland, the team will begin the summer months passing by small fishing villages and fertile river valleys, all set against the backdrop of the enormous Vatnajokull Glacier, the largest in Europe.

    Rounding the south coast of Iceland, Dan and Riaan will encounter a rich variety of natural forces such as magnificent waterfalls, geysirs, simmering volcanoes and vast glaciers. They will also pass through the Westman islands, including Surtsey, a new island created during a volcanic eruption, the World Heritage Site that is the location of an extensive study on bio-colonisation.

    The Reykjanes Peninsula is on the south- eastern tip of Iceland, a landscape pitted with volcanic and geothermal sites, and will lead the lead on to Iceland's capital Reykjavik.

    After Reykjavik, Riaan and Dan will kayak around the outstretched arm of the Snaefellsness Peninsula on the west coast, and pass under mountains and glaciers and pass numerous islands and bird cliffs. The diverse scenery ranges from rugged lava formations and chasms to lush farmlands, river valleys and waterfalls.

    The West Fjords is a vast area of deeply indented fjords, glaciers and mountains and breathtaking scenery, most of which is completely uninhabited. Towering angular cliffs rise sharply from the deep blue seas.
    Latrabjarg, at the beginning of the West Fjords, is home to the largest bird-cliff in Iceland with millions of nesting sea-birds.
    The team will encounter this dramatic north- east section of Iceland in summer, which means the climate will not be as ferocious as in winter, but the peninsulas and fjords that make up the West Fjords are the most remote and sparsely populated in Iceland.

    The home stretch along the north coast of Iceland will take the team past fjords with beautiful underwater life, and mountains overhead flowing with rivers and waterfalls.

    Around Iceland on Inspiration will be a spectacular experience that will enrich the lives of all affected, and create a partnership and bond that will strengthen both Riaan and Dan physically and mentally. There will be extreme highs and extreme lows; blood, sweat and tears.

    This will be a story about courage, friendship, determination and inspiration.

    Keep a look out here for updates, journal entries and photographs as we begin the Iceland journey on 16 March 2011!


    Stage 1:
    Husavik to Porshofn
    Stage 2: Porshofn to Lansendi
    Stage 3: Lansendi to Hofn
    Stage 4: Hofn to Vik
    Stage 5: Vik to Strandakirkja
    Stage 6: Strandakirkja to Husey
    Stage 7: Husey to Reykholar
    Stage 8: Reykholar to Patreksfjordur
    Stage 9: Patreksfjordur to Sudureyri
    Stage 10: Sudureyri to Brimnes
    Stage 11: Brimnes to Reykir
    Stage 12: Reykir to Husavik



    Feeling the Pressure

    August 2011

    The date has been set for 27 August 2011 for our arrival in Husavik and this puts immense pressure on Dan and myself. We are still set back by a hole in the kayak that needs fixing and then time to dry, weather that just doesn't go our way, and inaccessible landing spots.

    Majestic West Fjörds

    August 2011

    A 7 hour drive took the crew around to the West Fjörds, up mountain passes, along narrow cliff-side roads, and looping around a total of 16 fjörds. The journey, although dangerous and tiring, was incredibly beautiful.

    Touchdown on Isolated Iceland

    August 2011

    After a mammoth 63km paddle across Breiðafjördur bay, passing by the capital city Reykjavik, we landed on Rauðisandur beach, the beginning for us of the 'antler of Iceland', the West Fjörds. The 12-hour slog treated us to a sighting of whale sharks, as well as views of the upcoming majestic mountains and deep fjörds of this daunting piece of the country to come.

    Tackling it Together

    August 2011

    The South African Mafia

    August 2011

    Arriving in the town of Grundarfjördur, our cars were immediately swamped by smiling faces and the warming sound of the South African accent. Shelagh Smith, Johanna van Schalkwyk and Johnny Cramer settled in this town many years ago, with June Scholtz in Hellisandur nearby. Shelagh's visiting sister Fiona completed the pack of enthusiastic SAFAS ready to shower us with surprises and hospitality. We so enjoyed their company and most of us were teary eyed when they bade us farewell on Rif beach.>

    Birds Eye View

    August 2011

    The chosen day for our helicopter filming of us around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula gave us much more than we bargained for. As Dan and I got into place in the kayak at Malarif lighthouse and the helicopter was about to take off to film the first few shots of us kayaking along the rocky shore, Brad our Camera B spotted a large pod of killer whales a kilometre off. We immediately motored towards them, and were soon surrounded by them , mothers with babies the size of our kayak, huge whales with 6ft dorsal fins. They completely ignored as they spun around the water in a feeding frenzy with diving birds overhead. Soon they swam off faster than we could paddle. This was such a humbling experience. We have finally seen our orcas!

    Snaefellsjökull

    August 2011

    We hiked halfway up the small glacier of Snaefellsjökull which sits on the tip of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. It was particularly special for Chesrae as he had never experienced snow before! We were warned to not hike to the top, as the glacier was melting from underground, forming deep crevices running kilometres underground, that you cannot see from the top and will result in a fatal fall.

    Behind the Scenes

    August 2011

    Determined Dan

    August 2011

    Committed Riaan

    August 2011

    Headlands and Caves

    August 2011

    Spectacular caves surround Snaefellsnes Peninsula, with ancient layered rock walls that make us feel insignificant in the world. Towering cliffs are topped with bright lighthouses, and beaches are filled with pebbles that have been rounded by the movement of the waves over centuries.

    Snaefellsjokull Peninsula

    August 2011

    This long finger of land stretching out westwards above the Reykjavik area houses the Snaefellsjokull glacier on its tip, vast lavafields, rocky shores with strange formations and caves, towering cliffs, pretty towns and long beaches.

    Powering up the West Coast

    August 2011

    For the last month we have had many consecutive days of perfect weather, which we have definitely made use of. Since 21 July we have covered 764km, when we had only covered 926km the four months previously! We always knew that we would have delays paddling during the winter when we first arrived due to bad weather, but we could never have predicted for how long we would be delayed. Now, however, we are powering away, almost on the home stretch!

    Rocky Lavalands

    August 2011

    The Reyjanes and Snaefellsnes peninsulas are covered with other- worldly lavafields and long stretches of rocky shores with strange rock formations, cliffs and caves. The volcanic nature of these areas create the steaming lava fields and hot pools, and sometimes huge sulphurous steam vents.

    Darkness once more

    August 2011

    It is nearing the end of summer, so the nights of midnight sun are slowly coming to an end. The sun goes down at about 21:00 now, which was very different to the last two months where we have only have about two hours of darkness the whole night! It is becoming difficult to paddle in the darkness- we cannot see where the land is in relation to us, and the crew have to rely on the Spot navigation devices to know where we are.

    Rocky Shores

    July 2011

    Past the long black sand beaches of the south coast, we entered a new landscape of lava fields and rocky shores- the Reykjanes Peninsula. The rocky shores provide sheltered bays for landing the kayak, but slippery seaweed on rocks is not kind to weary sea- legs.

    Back on the Water

    July 2011

    After returning to South Africa for a few days to compete in the Windhoek Berg River Canoe Marathon, Riaan joined up with the team again in Iceland to tackle the second half of the journey. Although bodies were aching and blisters re-opened, Riaan and Dan paddled two long nights in a row, keen to pass Reykjavik and head up to the West Fjords.

    Serenity of the South

    July 2011

    South-east Iceland has been a jewel of incredible sculptured mountains, stunning sunsets that seem to last all night long, and masses of purple flowers on the slopes and roadsides, with bright green fields housing sheep and horses with little foals in tow. It is a mythical place, and at this time of year, it is full of new life.

    Passing the Westman Islands

    July 2011

    In one day we passed underneath the famous volcano Eyjafjallajökull, and passed by the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands), which includes the worlds newest piece of earth, the island of Surtsey. As we turned into the harbour at Landeyjarhöfn where the ferry leaves for the islands, we saw it in front of us about to leave, and gave us a sharp "toot" in reprimand!

    Dyrhólaey

    May 2011

    Dyrhólaey is a promontory reaching out into the ocean on the south coast, with unique rock formations and a huge arch of lava rock, which gave the peninsula its name, meaning the hill-island with the door-hole.

    Our Halfway Town

    May 2011

    The southernmost town of Vik, our halfway point, was bathed in sunlight and purple flowers, with the little church like a sentry on the hill above the town.

    Happy to be Halfway

    May 2011

    It is really a psychological forward step to have reached halfway. Now we are paddling towards home, not away from it, and will soon turn north to show this on the map. The 865km until now have tested us mentally and physically, and the excitement of this homeward turn will add that extra little bit of strength to a long day.

    Vicious Landing at Vik

    May 2011

    After a long paddling day into strong headwinds, we were subjected to one of the nastiest landings yet on this journey, with 15ft waves crashing down on the beach at Vik, with hardly a moments break in-between. A short pier gave us little shelter against these angry waves, which slammed onto the shore and sucked back again in equal brutality.

    What we get to see!

    May 2011

    The team has had the opportunity to see the most incredible sights along the north, east and south coasts of Iceland. Every day we all gasp at the stunning waterfalls and sunsets, the changing of the landscape day by day from the starkness of winter to the rainbow of summer.

    Worker Bees

    May 2011

    The logistics behind Around Iceland on Inspiration is a huge job, shared by all members of the crew. Huge amounts of gear in two cars and a trailer, 7 team members, many mouths to feed and bodies to rest. The hardworking members of this team are always ready to give a hand in any situation. No matter what their prescribed position.

    The Face Tells it All

    May 2011

    Terror, exhaustion, disappointment, joy, relief. The journey has not been an easy one. I think I can safely say that it has been the hardest journey so far in the lives of both paddlers, for different reasons.

    Aching Bodies

    May 2011

    Rough landing are not kind to the already aching muscles and stiff "sea-legs" of the paddler. Often, even the softest landings result in a few moments of spluttering and crawling on the black sand on all fours from tumbling out of the boat during the landing. The land takes a little getting used to again after you have been out at sea for 8 or so hours at a time.

    Unsheltered Beaches

    May 2011

    Unsheltered by fjörds, mountains or even rocky outcrops or small bays, Iceland's south coast was a straight line of never-ending beaches, and never-ending surf. Weather had to be intricately studied before a paddle- the wind, tides and surge- and landing spots had to also be chosen with care.

    Leaving Ingólfshöfði

    May 2011

    It was quite treacherous leaving the beach of Ingólfshöfði, as there was a narrow channel next to the high cliff in which to paddle past the breakers. After a few false starts on days with bad weather, the guys finally got through, to the relief of everyone. With its grumpy farmer and even grumpier great skulls, we were glad to put Ingólfshöfði behind us.

    The Puffins of Ingólfshöfði

    May 2011

    Ingólfshöfði Nature Reserve is an isolated headland between black sands and the Atlantic Ocean, with thousands of nesting seabirds, especially puffins and the great skua. This historical cape is named after the first settler of Iceland, Ingólfur Arnarson, who spent his first winter in Iceland there in 874 AD.

    Hike to the Top

    May 2011

    On a day when conditions were too rough to paddle, Riaan and two camera crew hiked the 15 hours up to the top of Iceland's highest peak, Hvannadalshnjúkur (pronounced ˈkvanːatalsˌn̥ʲuːkʏr') at 2,119m. The hike was difficult and the steep icy slopes and hidden crevasses called for the need of specialised glacial equipment such as ropes and crampons.

    Stuck in the River

    May 2011

    Getting to the beach at Ingólfshöfði is a 40km stretch of glacial wetlands, and although there is a road, it is flooded with water and crosses several glacial rivers. We managed to get both the cars stuck in one such glacial river at 04:00, and had to call the farmer out to pull us out with his tractor. Needless to say, he charged us a fat fee for our incompetence!

    Paddling past Jökulsárlón

    May 2011

    It was exciting paddling past the glacial lake Jökulsárlón, and dangerous as well, as the icebergs you see from the surface only reflect 1/8 of their actual size, and they are constantly rolling and drifting out to sea.

    Glacial Ice, Beach Beach

    May 2011

    Jökulsárlón is a glacial lake in south-east Iceland. It developed only 60 years ago when the glacier receded from the ocean. Icebergs break off the glacial tongue of Breiðamerkurjökull branching from the Vatnajökull Glacier, and float down the river, gathering the the lagoon mouth and rolling out to sea. The icebergs have two colourings, one is milky white, and the other has a blue tinge, which is an interplay of light and ice crystals.

    Low Visibility

    May 2011

    The landing at Hestgerðislón was treacherous, firstly due to the heavy fog that developed in the early hours of the morning, and because the Garmin GPS had been mislaid a few days earlier. Riaan and Dan had no idea which way land was, and just had to listen for breaking waves on the beach, and look out for the torch light being shone by Tracey at the landing spot.

    Four Days in a Row!

    May 2011

    From 10- 13 June we were able to paddle for four consecutive days, covering a distance of 108km from Stoksnes near the town of Höfn to Ingólfshöfði. Previously on the trip we had only been able to have two consecutive paddling days!

    Eyjafjallajökull from the Air

    May 2011

    The volcano that shut down Europe's airspace for several days in April 2010, Eyjafjallajökull, one year later from the air.Eyjafjallajökull from the Air

    Night Owls

    May 2011

    We have discovered that the midnight sun-lit nights in Iceland bring calmer winds, so we have been grafting at night quite a bit. It is really surreal to be able to see clearly right throughout the night, and to listen to the night sounds and observe the misty night scenes of Iceland!

    Guided by our Sea Rescue Friends

    May 2011

    Always willing to help, the Sea Rescue team from Höfn joined us in the early hours in the morning to escort us past the town's harbour entrance, giving our camera crew a great vantage point from which to film us.

    A Few Perfect Days

    May 2011

    We were stranded near the town of Höfn for a month due to the never- ending gale force winds coming at us from over the Vatnajökull Glacier, but finally we were given a break in the weather and were treated to a few perfect calm days.

    Underwater

    May 2011

    I often try to take a few photos with one of our waterproof Canon D10 cameras, of the view we don't often get to see- what is happening underneath us! The water is often crystal clear with a bright blue tinge, and seaweed bright colours.

    Kayak Cam

    May 2011

    Dan and I have seen incredible sights from our kayak, as we travel under huge cliffs and past flocks of seabirds and under waterfalls. Through the physical and mental toughness of each days paddle we still are struck by the majesty of each fjord and mountain we pass.

    Glaciers from the Air

    May 2011

    Iceland looks spectacular from the air, and the glaciers and especially the glacial rivers look like veins and arteries inside a human body. It is really a completely different perspective up there, and really the only way to see the immensity of the glaciers.

    Our Helicopter Trip over South Iceland

    May 2011

    Riaan's girlfriend Vasti got a great surprise when she arrived in Iceland for a visit, and was whisked off in a helicopter trip over Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla volcanoes! Our cameraman Darren and photographer Richard got spectacular images of the glaciers, rivers and volcanoes.

    Mesmerising Skies

    May 2011

    Iceland has the most impressive sky and cloud formations, and when you have sunsets lasting for hours, it is a mouth- watering palette for our photographer.

    Soaking up the Beauty

    May 2011

    The landscapes around Höfn in south- east Iceland, and especially around Harnarnes guesthouse with its 360° views, is remarkable from early in the morning until late in the still- sunlit evening. Early morning brings views of mountain peaks with finely- dusted snow, and the late afternoon dramatic clouds sweep over the glacier.

    Stranded on the South Coast

    May 2011

    Many kayakers and Icelanders alike have warned us about the ferocious south coast, with its unsheltered beaches, strong winds blowing over Vatnajökull Glacier and sand- storms. We have been extremely frustrated having spent almost three weeks without being able to move from our base at Höfn, due to uncompromising conditions.

    Working with the Rescuers

    May 2011

    Unable to kayak because of rough seas, we put ourselves to good use by volunteering at the Björgunarfélag Hornafjarðar, the Sea Rescue Unit in Höfn. It was the least we could do for these tireless individuals who have always been willing to give of their time to assist us, although thankfully we have not yet had to use them in an emergency (touch wood!).

    Perfectly Focussed

    May 2011

    Our filming crew of young enthusiastic professionals all show endless amounts of energy, hard work and passion for the job at hand. And who wouldn't, having been given the opportunity to work in such an awe-inspiring place, where every sight calls for the lens to be lifted, every sunset worthy of a hike with heavy equipment up to a high vantage point.

    The Toyota Shoot

    May 2011

    We were privileged to have been given the opportunity to spend time filming and photographing two stunning new vehicles for Toyota Europe. We chose the most diverse and stunning landscapes on Iceland's south- east coast in which to film these cars, for the Land Cruiser's 60th Anniversary. The scenery in which the subjects were set showed off their adaptability in rough terrain and necessity to get to the most dramatic places on earth.

    Midnight Paddle

    May 2011

    We set off for our first paddle in the "midnight sun" at 00:00 on 30 May, crossing Lónsvík bay. We have met paddlers who have spent many nights paddling through these eery hours, and it proved successful for us, although somewhat messing with our sleeping patterns.

    Our Beaten - Up Kayak

    May 2011

    After a week of gale force winds, we were dead keen on hitting the water again, only to find our kayak had been smashed up against the rocks on the beach where we had left it. The gaping holes required days of work and lots of patience.

    Choking through the Ash

    May 2011

    For the week that Grimsvötn volcano was erupting and spewing ash and steam into the atmosphere, we tried desperately to find a Super Jeep owner who would take us onto the glacier and to the volcano. We had to film it! But alas, they stayed well away from the lava and ash. We did get to play in this weird grey world, however, even though our lungs were aching the next day.

    Volcano!

    May 2011

    When Grimsvötn volcano rumbled violently and spewed ash high into the sky, we were right underneath the glacier, not knowing that we were in potential danger. However, when we got the call about the news, we were more excited than fearful, wanting to get closer to this phenomenon. The land became clogged with ash, even Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon's icebergs became laced in black ash.

    Paddling in a Glacial Lake

    May 2011

    We took the spare kayak up to a glacial lake below Hoffellsjökull, a tongue on the south- eastern corner of Vatnajökull glacier, to film once- in- a- lifetime shots of Riaan and Dan paddling around with huge ice blocks floating eerily around them, the huge white mass of the glacial towering behind.

    Sighting Vatnajokull

    May 2011

    Greeting us as we came around the mountain passes from the fishing town Djúpivogur towards Vatnajökull was tongues of glaciers melting down from the huge mass of ice that is Vatnajökull, the largest ice cap in Europe.

    Posers

    May 2011

    Riaan and Dan are by now used to always having cameras in their faces, and for our Carlisle- grown photographer Richard, there is always an interesting snap to take of these animated and grisly adventurers against Icelandic backdrops!

    South-East Splendour

    May 2011

    Known as the "beautiful south", the south- east of Iceland offers a wealth of incredible sights around the corner from each other, from sheltered fjords, stunning waterfalls everywhere you look, calming vistas and colourful mountains.

    Hello Summer!

    May 2011

    We have had the privilege of witnessing Iceland transform from being snow- covered to unveiling her summer plumage of greens and browns.

    THE TOWN OF WATERFALLS

    May 2011

    Seyðisfjörður is a small town set at the base of a long fjord and nestled between high snow- capped mountains that have hundreds of rivers and waterfalls drizzling down them into the fjord below. The town's summer rhythms operate around the arriving and leaving of the ferry Norrona to Denmark.

    TEAM SPIRIT

    May 2011

    After almost two months together, team spirit and camaraderie is high. The unique characters in the team always manage to entertain, creating an environment in the camp that is never dull.

    MAKING PROGRESS

    May 2011

    Riaan and Dan have been making tremendous progress during this month, having already paddled halfway down the east fjords and well on the way to the south coast. They have found their rhythm and Dan has almost perfected his once timid forward paddle.

    A BIT OF ENCOURAGEMENT

    May 2011

    In need of something to look forward to after the most frightening day on the water yet, Dan was thrilled to be visited by his father, Alvin Skinstad, and brother Andy. They were able to stay with us for several days. Even when you don't have the privilege of having family members visiting you, one can always find comfort in food, and each other!

    ALONE AND UNAIDED

    May 2011

    Paddling from Seyðisfjörður to Viðlovík near Eskifjörður was a long, tough day, ending with Riaan and Dan being stranded for almost an hour out at sea due to no visibility through thick fog and therefore being unable to land. When they were finally able to see ten metres in front of them, heavy swells tipped over the kayak and tumbled the pair around in the surf, tearing cameras off the kayak and pounding it into rocks.

    COMMUNICATION LOST

    May 2011

    The stage at sea from Bakkagerði to Seyðisfjörður was in a remote area where road access was non- existent, and the production team lost contact with the paddlers for several hours.

    THE CLIFFS OF SKÁLANES

    May 2011

    The high cliffs at the mouth of Seyðisfjörður are the home to thousands of birds such as kittiwakes, puffins, arctic terns and the occasional Gyr falcons, Europe's largest falcon.

    SKÁLANES NATURE RESERVE

    May 2011

    At the mouth of Seyðisfjörður lies Skálanes Nature Reserve, a private protected area and heritage centre that serves to protect the Icelandic environment and cultural history within it, as well as carrying out valuable environmental research and being a model for sustainable tourism.

    LOOKING UP CLOSE

    May 2011

    Icicles on a snowy overhang, folds of a whale's skin, underbelly of a beached whale, an icy droplet, moss- covered rocks

    ALL IN A DAY'S WORK

    May 2011

    Though there are plenty of tough times, there are just as many times when we are stunned by the beauty and the other-worldliness of the place we are in, and we actually have the ultimate privilege of being able to view it like only a handful of people can.

    OUR TRUSTY TOYOTAS

    April 2011

    We were extremely grateful to have been offered two fantastic Toyotas- a Land Cruiser and a Hilux- to use for the four- month trip. We have been very impressed with what these cars are capable of- and we have certainly tested them in Iceland's rugged terrain. We often have debates about which vehicle is better- the Land Cruiser or the Hilux!

    FASCINATING ICELAND

    April 2011

    From spectacles such as herds of wild Icelandic horses, massive beached whales, great glacial rivers and the Northern Lights, we have certainly been spoilt with sights from another world. The Northern Lights treated us to a few choice displays, one of which took all our breaths away, as neon streaks danced across the sky as if teasing us, and then disappeared as quickly as they arrived.

    THE POUNDING WAVES

    April 2011

    There have been many days when we stare out to sea in despair, wanting to get out there but impossible in the huge surf. Dan and I have learnt how to read the sea conditions in front of us and on the weather sites, to carefully and critically make a call which could ultimately save us from disaster.

    TOUGH TIMES

    April 2011

    An adventure such as this one brings a fair share of highs and lows, as Dan and I have already experienced. Blistered fingers, hard rocky landings and punishing waves, frightening experiences out to sea and complete fatigue. For Dan especially, the physical demands of this trip have been tough, but with all this it is our mental strength that pulls us through.

    TOWNS OF NORTH- EAST ICELAND

    April 2011

    We passed though towns with tongue- twisting names that take a week to master- Raufarhöfn (pronounced ray-ver-hup), þorshöfn (pronounced "thors- hup") and Vopnafjörður (pronounced "vopna-fuur-duur"). Some of the fishing villages only house a hundred people, others are larger and are more tourism- driven. In the winter, however, these towns are eerily quiet, owing to the lack of tourists and the locals not often venturing out into the cold.

    HAPPY TO BE SOUTH AFRICAN

    April 2011

    After a month in Iceland, it was great to have a good old South African braai. We collected driftwood from the beach (they are strewn with sticks and logs coming from as far as Siberia), "borrowed" a rusty truck rim and grid from the scrap yard, acquired some freshly- slaughtered Icelandic lamb, and flame- grilled to perfection. The Big Issue magazine from South Africa also put me on the cover of the April 2011 edition, which was a great honour.

    TOUGH CONDITIONS ON THE NORTH-EAST COAST

    April 2011

    Locals say that if you don't like the weather in Iceland, wait five minutes. This certainly is the same with the sea conditions, which change so rapidly, you often don't have time to react. The wind could be favourable, but swells huge from a storm out to sea. Dan and I have been caught on many occasions fighting the power of the sea, which always wins. Landings can be treacherous, especially if there are rocks involved.

    INCREDIBLE ICELANDIC SUNSETS

    April 2011

    We have had the privilege of witnessing the most incredible sights in Iceland, and the four or so months that we are here will show us spectacular sunsets. The "midnight sun" is a spectacle on its own, with summer bringing round-the-clock light, with the sun only setting in the middle of the night, only to come up again an hour or so later!

    OUR KAYAK CALLED INSPIRATION

    April 2011

    Our PaddleYak Swift Hybrid kayak, made in South Africa, has been a curiosity to local paddlers, who usually use sit- in versions. However, in these rough seas, this sit-on-top kayak is safer should we capsize, but it still has features of a sit-in kayak such as the protective coaming around the seat area. Our small vessel that will be carrying us around Iceland is pimped out with suction-mounted cameras, large hatches for stowing our kit, and features branding of our major supporters.

    HEAT FROM THE EARTH

    April 2011

    Thermal springs are found all over Iceland, sometimes emerging at ground level as a hot- water springs or flooding natural depressions to form hot pools. In some cases the water emerges from the ground as steam through a vent. Natural steam is harnessed in Iceland to drive turbines and generate geothermal power, and also as heating for homes and hothouses. The pictures below were taken near Mývatn, an area of active volcanism in the north of Iceland

    THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WATERFALLS IN THE WORLD

    April 2011

    From Dettifoss, Europe's largest waterfall, to small cascades flowing down a mountainside, waterfalls are one of Iceland's most abundant feature, due to its numerous glacial rivers and rugged landscape. We have come across powerful forces of nature that take your breath away, waterfalls that drop straight into the ocean, waterfalls that seem to disappear into the core of the earth, and waterfalls that have transformed from completely frozen pillars of ice to free- flowing spectacles. From left to right: Goðafoss, Dettifoss closeup, Dettifoss, a mountain waterfall on Héraðsfloí, and a waterfall above Þorshofn.

    FUN IN THE SNOW

    April 2011

    During winter there were several days when the sea conditions rendered it impossible to kayak, but there were plenty of activities to keep Dan and I active, and the snow was a real wonder to us. From snowball fights, getting dragged behind the cars on pieces of plastic, to getting a snowmobile lesson, we found many ways of enjoying the white powdery stuff which we don't get to play in back home.

    THE BRAVE FISHERMEN OF ICELAND

    April 2011

    Fish and fish products constitute more than 70% of Iceland's export goods and are therefore by far the most important industry. The fishing territory, which is Iceland's main natural resource, requires strict protection, and fish catches are tightly controlled. The main species are: cod, haddock, saithe, redfish, herring and capelin.

    THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE RUGGED ADVENTURERS

    April 2011

    The Icelandic climate certainly transforms you and hardens your body. Dan especially, arrived in Iceland all fresh- faced and boyish, but now sports a sizeable "snor" and beard, having transformed like Riaan into a rugged Viking traveller.

    SCENERY FROM THE NORTH- EAST TIP OF ICELAND

    April 2011

    The landscapes and scenery on the north- east tip of the island are breathtaking and diverse. The mountains still have snow- covered tips, rivers are full to the brim from glacial and snow- melt run-off, and there are waterfalls in their hundreds.

    TACKLING DIFFICULT LANDINGS

    April 2011

    For every paddling day there are obstacles involved in getting out to sea and coming in. There are not many quiet beaches to land the kayak on in the north- east of Iceland, and Riaan and Dan often have to tackle rocky shores that are pounded by both wind and surf. Landing on rocks are even more difficult to negotiate when you have developed "sea- legs" from the long day's paddle!

    ENJOYING THE ICELAND CULTURE

    April 2011

    We have received a warm welcome from everyone we have met so far on the journey, which has afforded us insight into the rich Icelandic culture, especially in what they eat. We have tried Icelandic lamb, whale, reindeer, monkfish roe and salmon. We are yet to sample puffin, and have our slingshots ready for this opportunity.

    ICELAND'S AMAZING ROCK FORMATIONS

    April 2011

    The tectonic plates that run through Iceland makes the country very volcanically active the the geology diverse. On the coast, caves, tunnels and rock stacks are carved out of the rock material by ever- churning wave action. Cliff- nesting birds have made good use of the sprinkling of islands and rock stacks around the coast, giving them protection from predatory arctic foxes and the feral mink.

    ICELANDIC BIRDLIFE

    April 2011

    Iceland has some 300 recorded bird species, of around 80 breed regularly. Seabirds which we have spotted while kayaking include Arctic tern, black guillemot, cormorant, eider ducks, harlequin duck, gannet, fulmar, Iceland gull, kittiwake, oystercatcher, puffin, We have also spotted ptarmigan, whooper swan, plovers and hundreds of pink- footed geese inland. Kittiwakes are seagulls that inhabit the steep cliff faces, and in their huge numbers make a huge racket overhead, which gets quite intimidating when you are camping below them and they are squabbling and kicking down rocks on you! One of the most spectacular sights we have seen is the gannet colony at Storuvíkurbjarg on the Langanes Peninsula, where a single rock stack is inhabited by hundreds of gannets, all landing and taking off with perfect flight plans.

    GETTING STUCK

    April 2011

    We put tested our Toyotas to the limit, with the purpose of reaching the most inaccessible areas of Iceland for filming faraway waterfalls or massive bird cliffs, or to reach Riaan and Dan as they land on a secluded rocky beach. Often we have become stuck in deep snow or muddy ditches, having to rely on the other car and a towrope, or expertly placed rocks to be pulled out.

    THE 'AROUND ICELAND ON INSPIRATION' TEAM

    March 2011

    Following Riaan and Dan, as well as Brad and Thor as the expedition planning team around the country is a group of film-makers and photographers. The film crew are capturing every moment of action and every breathtaking landscape to put together a documentary series of the expedition.

    FILMING IN THE ICY WINTER

    March 2011

    It has been an incredible experience for the filming crew to be working in such a dramatically stunning part of the world. From puffins to whales and the midnight sun, photogenic Iceland is an island of contrasts. The continually- changing landscapes are punctuated with mountains, glaciers, farmlands, waterfalls, quaint towns and Viking ruins.

    THE PROTAGONISTS ALL FIRED UP

    March 2011

    With all preparations on the kayak done and the first few stages of the expedition planned, Riaan and Dan were eager to get out onto the water. Dan spent a few days putting up his tent and taking it down again, trying to master this process so that when he has to do it in strong winds it's a bit easier for him. The kayak was packed with all that was needed- a small amount of food, water, Spot device and GPS, camping gear and extra clothes.

    SCENERY AROUND HÚSAVÍK

    March 2011

    Húsavík is on the north coast of Iceland, a beautiful area of black sand beaches, gentle undulating hills and wide bays. Húsavík is northeast Iceland's largest town and the whale- watching hub of the country.

    SUPPORT FROM THE LOCALS

    March 2011

    Right from the start we had friendly, enthusiastic Icelanders willing to help us. We have experienced every degree of hospitality, from a delicious breakfast at Bakka Cafe in Husavik, companionship from local kayakers and assistance from the Mayor of Husavik. We have found several Icelandic gems who have now become our good friends and faithful advisors. Most importantly however, we always receive willing and crucial support of the Icelandic Rescue Association.

    TRAINING IN THE BAY

    March 2011

    Dan and I spent a few days paddling in and around Skjálfandi bay to get used to paddling our newly equipped PaddleYak kayak in the Icelandic sea conditions and winter temperatures. We immediately spotted where difficulties would lie for us- the take- offs, landings, balance, rough seas, strong winds, heavy swells and being able to reach a paddling rhythm together.

    PREPARATIONS FOR THE TRIP

    March 2011

    The Mayor of Húsavík offered us the use of a warehouse at the harbor, where we worked on the two kayaks (one being a spare)- sanding, fitting audio cables and camera equipment and placing stickers. We spent several days doing the last planning for the start of the trip, looking at the first stage on maps and possible landing sites.

    WINTER IN HÚSAVÍK

    March 2011

    It was incredible for us to experience the winter of Iceland when we first arrived in Húsavík in late March. The snow was thick on the ground, and there were long icicles haggling from roofs of houses. For many of us, snow was a first- time experience, and there were a few flat-on-your-face falls when people stepped on slippery ice rather than the soft snow.

    DRIVE ACROSS COUNTRY

    March 2011

    At first we were going to start the journey at Reykjavík, as most of the past kayakers have done, but were urged to start rather in the north. If we had to tackle the dangerous and uninhabited West Fjords at the beginning of the trip and the middle of winter, we would have definitely come into serious trouble. Our trek across the country from Reykjavík to Húsavík in our newly sponsored Toyota Land Cruiser and Toyota Hilux was breathtaking- we transected a country of diversity and absolute beauty- a wonderful taster for the expedition.

    THE DRY SUIT TEST

    March 2011

    Our dry suits are there to protect us from the elements, especially the freezing water. If we happen to fall out of the kayak during the trip, we needed to know that these guys are waterproof, so we did a test in a little bay in Reykjavík, where we stayed in the water for half an hour. Our hands and faces were burning with cold when we got out, but the dry suits passed with flying colours.

    ARRIVING IN REYKJAVÍK

    March 2011

    At first Reykjavík greeted us with thick snow covering the town and bitterly cold temperatures, but we were excited to be in Iceland. The snowball fights started and didn't end for a month or so afterwards when the snow started melting. Riaan was the chief instigator in snowball mischief.



    North Sailing kindly offered the use of a boat and skipper to facilitate the filming of the launch day on the 27th March from Husavik. We appreciate their support and would like to say a big thank you to the staff and owners of North Sailing. For an Icelandic sailing experience, visit www.northsailing.is read more...
    Icelandair, the nation's airline of choice, offered a substantial discount on excess baggage charges for our camera and expedition equipment – a big Riaan Manser thanks to the marketing team
    Our favorite place in Husavik, the Bakka Café in Husavik, run by the charming Sólrún Hansdóttir treated us to the best breakfast we have had so far in Iceland. We often think about those wonderful cream pancakes and crépes!
    Magnus Einarsson of GPG Saltfish, Raufarhofn (GPG Fisverkun, Raufarhofn) took Riaan and Dan on a tour of the fish factory, as well as presenting Riaan with a healthy helping of Monkfish roe for dinner!
    Robert Þórláksson and Kristján Önundarson of the Land and Sea Rescue Unit, Raufarhofn (Slysavarnafélagiđ Landsbjörg, Raufarhöfn) were of great assistance to our team when we lost contact with Riaan and Dan during their crossing of Pistilfjordur. They drove us to inaccessible points on the land to sight the kayak, and took our camera team out on their huge rescue boat (together with much of the population of Raufarhofn) to make contact with the team and to film their arrival into the town.
    The Nordurthing Municipality and the mayor of Husavik, Bergur Elias Ágústsson, gave Riaan and Dan much support at the launch of the expedition. We look forward to when we return to Husavik for the finale!
    The Land and Sea Rescue Unit, Husavik (Slysavarnafélagiđ Landsbjörg Garđar, Húsavik) gave us a tour of their facilities and enthusiastically escorted Riaan and Dan (and our camera crew) out of Husavik on Day 1 of the expedition.
    Agust Marinó Augustsson from Sauðanes Farm just outside of þórshöfn, treated Riaan and Dan to a horseback experience. Riaan, who had never before been on a horse, loved learning all about horsemanship, and soon became comfortable enough on the stocky, strong Icelandic horse's back that he was trotting and cantering around the arena! Dan loves horses and has ridden before, and really enjoyed this ride as it helped to stretch out tired muscles, and provided good balance practice. For a ride on a well- trained but still lively Icelandic horse, with instruction by Agust who definitely knows his stuff, contact Sauðanes farm at agustmarino@simnet.is or +354 891 9266.
    We give a huge hug and special thanks to Vilborg Arna Gissurardóttir. It's nice to have an expedition guide who is available now and then, has the mayor of Husavik on speed dial and only two phone calls away from the president. She is the only guide with X-ray vision and a bear claw in her pocket. Its been awesome to have her as our unofficial expedition guide and our trip would be that much colder without her.
    A big thank you to Beco and Daniel Pétursson for generously providing us with a pair of top- class binoculars, which we desperately needed in order to spot the tiny kayak when it is out to sea. Tel.: (+354) 533 3411 Email: daniel@beco.is Website: www.beco.is
    We appreciate very much the donation of several detailed maps from Ferðakort, which Riaan uses regularly for navigation of his route around Iceland. Ferðakort is founded on a long-standing tradition of cartography and map publishing. They focus on producing quality maps and map books. All of the company's products, as well as maps previously released by the National Land Survey, are available at the map shop at Brautarholt 8, Reykjavik. Email: ferdakort@ferdakort.is Web: www.ferdakort.is

    þorarinn þòrisson and Guðjón Gamaliasson from Björgunarsveitin Hafliði (Rescue Unit, þórshöfn) guided Riaan and Dan around the treacherous point of the Langanes Peninsula in their rescue boat, and were on hand in case of an emergency for the team, as the 30km- long stretch around the point provided no possible landing spots for the kayak should they come into trouble. We appreciate the time and effort!
    Riaan and Dan visited a working sheep and horse farm near þórshöfn called Holt, and were told about the horses, sheep and rams and how they are cared for and farmed. Riaan even got to handle a ram by his horns, feeling how incredibly strong they are! If you would like to have a "working holiday" in Iceland helping out on a sheep farm, contact Sigurður þor Guðmundsson at Holt Farm on +354 895 0833 or sthg@bondi.is.
    The owners of Strandhöfn farm near Vopnafjordur were very friendly and accommodating when Riaan and Dan landed on their beach for a stopover on Day 33. Thank you to Guðjón Jósefsson, Ísfold Helga Kristjánsdóttir, Jóhanna Ástdís Guðjónsdóttir, Ólafur Ásbjörnsson and their sheepdog Leppur. It was interesting to find out that a previous circumnavigating kayak pair had also landed on their farm back in 1970, and had signed their guestbook too. Ólafur was also kind enough to take several of the crew members on an exhilarating horse- ride on their spirited Icelandic ponies, which was much enjoyed.
    We thank Izzy Morgan and Paul Turner, wildlife rangers at Skálanes Nature and Heritage Centre for their hospitality and assistance. The comfortable and spacious hostel includes a fascinating museum of natural and cultural artifacts. Skálanes Nature Reserve serves to protect the Icelandic environment and cultural history within it, as well as carrying out valuable environmental research and being a model for sustainable tourism.
    Skálanes Nature and Heritage Centre: Manager Ólafur Pétursson. Web: www.skalanes.com. Email: skalanes@skalanes.com. Facebook: www.facebook.com/skalanes
    Riaan and Dan had a go at snowmobiling for the first time, after coming across a kind gentleman called Thorodur and his friends in the snowy mountains near Vopnafjörður. Thanks for entrusting your silverl beasts to these crazy adventurers!
    Thank you very much to the helpful mechanics at MSV Stál & Vélar in Egilsstaðir for helping us rejuvenate our 2nd- hand trailer! Myllan Stál & Vélar ehf, Miðási 12, 700 Egilsstaðir Sími: 470 1700 Tölvupóstur: msv@msv.is http://www.msv.is
    Our home for 3 weeks just outside the town of Höfn was Hafnarnes Guesthouse, and our wonderful Mother Hen, Nina. Thank you for always being there when we needed advice and came with armfuls of dirty washing. We will definitely miss you and all the puppies. For a cosy and friendly home-away-from-home, contact: Gistiheimilið Hafnarnesi, phone: +354 4267515, Web www.hafnarnes.is.
    We appreciate the support and friendship from Hilmar from the town Höfn. Hilmar lent Dan a home- made wooden rowing machine to exercise on, and treated us to a wonderful Icelandic lamb and lobster dinner!
    We were grateful to have been offered the help of Susanna from Iceland is Hot, a young and efficient travel and tourism organisation, which you can find at http://icelandishot.com. Susanna has fast become our friend, helping us tirelessly with advice, bookings and a fair deal of negotiating! Call Susanna at +354 775 0725.
    Glacier Guides took Riaan and two of the camera crew on an experience of a lifetime- a 15- hour steep hike up Iceland's highest peak, Hvannadalshnjúkur. The views at the top were extraordinary, especially the crater of Grimsvötn volcano which has erupted just a month before.

    DARREN ILETT

    Darren "Dazza" Ilett is Camera A, and works for Cooked in Africa Films in Cape Town, South Africa. He has travelled extensively filming numerous reality and documentary television shows. He has sweated blood and tears for four hundred years getting incredible footage. He loves long walks on the beach and is partial to a little bit of ink on his body. After one month in Iceland, Darren already sports a sizeable beard, and has been chosen as Riaan's body double for the remainder of the trip.
    BRAD THERON

    Brad Theron. Dynamic, on trend and SHARP. Theron was drafted in from southern Africa in May to bring sophistication to the camera team. Brad poses as a model for practice photo shoots on off- days
    ZAHIR ISAACS

    Zahir "brotherman" Isaacs is a soundman from Cape Town, South Africa. He specializes in location sound and has worked on various local and international television series, both reality and documentary. It brings a smile to Zahir's face to know that he's the only brother for hundreds of miles in this part of the world.
    RICHARD MILLS

    First in line at the food table but still as skinny as a giraffe, Richard "Carlisle" Mills is a gifted photographer from the smallish town ("great border city") of Carlisle in the north of the UK. Richard has given up the corporate life and is living out his dream of becoming a professional photographer.
    TRACEY BRUTON

    Tracey "T-Bone" Bruton is Camera B on the expedition, and adds finesse, representing the sisters. She is not only a cameraperson, but is also the expedition writer, social media updater and short video editor. Tracey has been nominated as the calender pin-up girl as Miss March, April, May and June.

    The Iceland Adventure


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    Well Wishes

    Riaan,
    What an honour, pleasure and 'inspiration' it was for me to see you and Dan finally reaching your goal by completing the Iceland expidition!!
    I watched the final episode last night and cried tears of joy, accomplishment and victory for both of you! I've never missed a single episode and felt as though I had been with you every single step of the way!
    Your ability to remain focused, encouraging and positive throughout the most difficult and daunting moments of your journey has given me new hope in my long, endless battle with depression!
    Riaan I must say that you are the most unique and special person I have EVER encountered in my entire life!!!!
    Everytime you encouraged Dan or even gave him flack (which was obviously very necessary at the time), I internalised every word you were saying as though you were talking to me!
    I learned more from you than I ever did from any psychiatrist or psychologist!!
    You were not 'playing a game out there' - that was YOU and who you are.
    I am totally lost for words right now Riaan, but THANK YOU and God bless you!
    Carry on being and believing in yourself and inspiring others to 'hear' you!
    Best regards,
    Liz


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